![]() ![]() Drying in this case is no different than any honey process in Central America. These coffees are also fully dried prior to milling to allow the full influence of the honey processing to affect the final cup. In this case, however, a skilled local processor, Aulia Kahfi, oversees a limited amount of honey process coffees each year. The typical processing culture of Sumatra is the wet-hull, in which a batch of coffee is depulped, fermented overnight, washed clean, and then sun-dried only enough to be dry to the touch before it’s mechanically hulled of its parchment, leaving behind just the soft, high-moisture coffee bean (thus earning the term “wet-hulled”), all of which is spread out on large patios to continue drying. They are accountable for quality standards and managing cash flow on behalf of cooperatives or mills for humid parchment, and often times fresh cherry in need of processing. ![]() Collectors consolidate coffee from their immediate community, usually in their own home. As is typical across Aceh and Northern Sumatra provinces, smallholder coffee here tends to be organized by collector, a prominent local position in Sumatra’s complex coffee value chain. Contributing farmers here have a combined coffee cultivation of around 200 hectares, an average of 0.5-1 hectare apiece. This coffee is grown and processed by farmers located in Bukit Sama, a very small community just a short drive east up the ridge from Lake Tawar and the town of Takengon. ![]() Including the ripening of coffee, which occurs ten months out of the year. Year-round mists and rain showers never cease, farm floors are spongy and deep with layered biomass, and almost every square meter of the region seems to exude life. The canopies are loud and fields are almost impenetrably thick with coffee plants, fruit trees, and vegetables, all of which are constantly flushing with new growth. Coffee farms in this area are managed with the experience of many generations of cultivation, while also harmoniously woven into their surrounding tropical forests. Its highland territory, surrounding Lake Tawar and the central city of Takengon, is considered the epicenter of one of the world’s most unique coffee terroirs. Aceh (pronounced AH-CHEY) is the northernmost province of Sumatra. ![]()
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